Despite being discovered, collected and grown in Europe for centuries by the plant world aristocracy, to the the general public Bromeliads remained obscure right up until to past few decades. The fascinating nature and aesthetics of Bromeliads was one of the best kept secrets in the plant world.
They were either unknown or appeared as strange exotic plants that people assumed were difficult to grow. Examples might have been seen in the lobby of a hotel or as an extra at an orchid show. Some of these plants seemed so peculiar that with their stiff brightly coloured leaves and symmetrical form it was not difficult to imagine they were plastic inventions and not real plants.
However, more recently Bromeliads have claimed a significant place in the horticultural world and are now being adapted for a wide range of locations including epiphytic adaptations like vertical gardens.
What is a Bromeliad ?
A bold clump of Guzmania placed at the bottom of an escalator in a shopping center
Bromeliads are a great family of plants with over 3,000 species. perhaps they are best known for the delicious pineapple, a tropical plant from the genus Ananas with edible multiple fruit consisting of coalesced berries.
However, as most members of the family develop bold symmetrical forms, have very attractive foliage and produce attractive flowers, they have been collected and cultured as in-door and garden plants for well over a century. Because some species produce flamboyant flowers which can last for many months there is a huge industry in growing some species for the domestic market. In Europe thousands are grown and induced to flower to catch the market for specific times of the year like mothers day. However after flowering, It is natural for the mother plant die after flower and unfortunately, at this point most of these plants are discarded even though the mother plant will produce offshoots from the base known as pups.
Bromeliads are a great family of plants with over 3,000 species and are perhaps best known for the delicious pineapple
Map of the nartural range of Bromeliads
In Spanish speaking countries they are commonly called Parasitos, but Bromeliads are not parasites and in fact many are true epiphytes, using the branches of trees only as a support to cling to and gaining no sustenance from their host.
With one exception all Bromeliads are native to the subtropical and tropical regions of the Americas. ( for some strange reason, a lone Pitcairnia species is found in West Africa) Growing from the southern part of the United States in the north way down to 800km short of the southern tip of Argentina, and from sea level to altitudes of 4,200 m, the range of Bromeliads is amazing. They vary in size from a few cm to 10 m high and in the case of Aechmea conifera up to 2.7 m in diameter.
In Spanish speaking countries they are commonly called Parasitos, but Bromeliads are not parasites and in fact many are true epiphytes
A clump of Aechmea gamospala grown as an epiphyte of an old plum tree
Despite the public perception, Bromeliads are not all delicate tropical plants that grow well in Queensland but need the special care of a heated green house during winter in cooler Victorian climates. In fact most are very resilient plants and many can actually survive with total neglect out doors in a climate like Melbourne that can see successive days over 40C and up to 46C or cool wet conditions in winter and even light frost.
I have even grown many Bromeliads out side sheltered against a wall as far south as Dunedin New Zealand.
It should be remembered that in their native habitat these plants often have sun burnt areas on the leaf and dead tissue from past mother plants. In nature, as no one tends to the plants, removing unsightly old mother plants or dead areas the dead tissue remain until it breakes off or rots down. A build up of dead tissue can actually help to shade some plants reducing sun damage. while providing organic matter for the roots. However in a garden these dead and failing leaves are most often removed to present the plant at its best.
Many species of Bromeliads are very adaptable and can grow quite well out doors in a climate like Melbourne
Bromeliads arranged for judging at the International Bromeliad Conference Chicago 2004
So photographs of perfect looking specimens, plants offered for sale or grown for judging at a Bromeliad show present the plants at their very best form and colour. Here the whole purpose is to apply the growers knowledge and skill, to grow visually perfect plants with symmetrically strong form, vibrant colour and no blemishes on the leaves.
However, plants grown out doors in hard conditions offer another quite different means of growing and experiencing these plants. In an out door garden they can be subjected to a range of elements which may mean they never gain the full splendor of a true tropical garden or nursery plants where conditions are optimized.
But at the same time, amazing plants grown in optimal nursery conditions can begin to fail when suddenly moved into a different location where the conditions are harsher.
photographs of perfect looking specimens, plants offered for sale or grown for judging at a Bromeliad show present the plants at their very best form and colour.
Bob Grant with some of his beautifully grown Bromeliads in a nursery north NSW.
Out doors, the foliage of hard grown plants might be subjected to the frustrations of conditions where leaves can be damaged by extremes of sun burn, hail, frost - animal, bird and insect attack - branches falling on them. Depending upon a range of factors, plants purchased from a nursery or plant shop may take up to a year to acclimatise to a more demanding environment out doors.
But a huge range of Bromeliad plants can be successfully hard grown and combined to create a stunning garden display where plants are not only grown on the ground but attached to the branches of trees as epiphytes offering a magical quality.
Out doors, the foliage of hard grown plants might be subjected to the frustrations of conditions where leaves can be damaged by extremes of sun burn, hail, frost - animal, bird and insect attack - branches falling on them
Evolution of Bromeliads
When the massive Andes mountain range thrust upward, it spawned a multitude of weird and eccentric plant forms that are often called air plants
There is a common belief that Bromelaids are ancient plants aligned with, cycads, ferns, but as angiosperms (flowering plants with sophisticated biological systems) they have actually developed quite recently. To put this in context what we might think of as ancient plants evolved about 300-400 Million years ago, where as ancient Bromeliads first evolved about 70-50 million years ago in South America. Dinosaurs are said to have died out about 65 million years ago.
About the same time as our ancestral forebears, the early apes, evolved on the planet (15 – 30 million years ago), the massive Andes mountain range thrust upward from intense tectonic activity. In the geological upheaval, countless life forms became stranded by high, rocky peaks and deep valleys. Increasingly, each species was exposed to a “rapidly” changing climate. Mostly drier, colder, and hotter. Relatively quickly (over a few million years), species either became locally/permanently extinct or evolved. More than any, Tillandsias, a genus of Bromeliads, diversified and about 1000 species evolved in an extremely short period.
Bromeliads are actually a recent family of plants and with more than 3,000 species are quite resilient to a wide range of climates.
The success of their profound resilience was founded on adaptive evolution, through which they developed and refined a complex series of biological systems and growth habits that spawned a multitude of weird and eccentric plant forms that are often called air plants.
One species, Tillandsiatectorum has been recorded growing in conditions of 75°C temperature change in a single day (-20°C to 55°C). Other genera of Bromeliads also evolved and diversified at this time. While there are still new species of Bromeliad being discovered every year, it is thought there are over 3,000 species of Bromeliads.
One very sort after species, Tillandsiatectorum has been recorded growing in conditions of 75°C temperature change in a single day (-20°C to 55°C)
Bromeliad plant parts
Inflorescence: the complete flower head of a plant including stems, stalks, bracts, and flowers.
Flowers: A flower, sometimes known as a bloom or blossom, is the reproductive structure found in plants like Bromeliads that are floral (plants of the division Magnoliophyta, also called angiosperms)
Floral Bracts: a bract is a modified or specialized leaf, especially one associated with a reproductive structure such as a flower, inflorescence axis, or cone scale. Bracts are often (but not always) different from foliage leaves. They may be smaller, larger, or of a different color, shape, or texture.
Scape: a scape is a long internode forming the basal part or the whole of a peduncle. Typically it takes the form of a long, leafless flowering stem rising directly from a bulb, rhizome, or similar subterranean or underwater structure.
Scape Bracts: These are the bracts attached to the scape
Leaves: A leaf is an organ of a vascular plant and is the principal lateral appendage of the stem. It is usually the part of the plant that engages in photosynthesis
Pup: A new offshoot from the parent plant
Stolon: A fibrous extension from the mother plant from which a pup forms
Ariel Roots: Roots forming from the stolon. In Bromeliads these are often used as a means of attaching to a host tree of rock.
Roots: In most plants the roots anchor the plant to the ground and uptake water an nutrients. Some Bromeliads use roots in this manner, but to varying degrees they has dispensed with using roots for this function and the main purpose of the root is to secure the plant to a host.
In some Bromeliad Genus like Neoregeias the inflorescence is resricted so as the flowers just rise above the water in the vase,
Flower parts
Male flower parts
Stamen: The stamen is entire male reproductive part of a flower, typically consisting of a pollen-containing anther and a filament.
Anther: The male reproductive part of a flower is called the stamen. It is composed of a long tube, called a filament, and has a pollen-producing structure on the end. This oval-shaped structure is called the anther. It is crucial in the reproduction of flowering plants, as it produces the male gametophyte, known as pollen.
Filament: The filament is a stalk-like structure that attaches to the base of the flower and supports theanther, which is the structure that produces pollen.
Pollen: Powdery grains that contain the male reproductive cells of most plants. In gymnosperms, pollen is produced by male cones or conelike structures. In angiosperms like Bromeliads, pollen is produced by the anthers at the end of stamens in flowers. ... The pollen grain is the male gametophyte generation of seed-bearing plants.
Petal:
Petals are modified leaves that surround the reproductive parts of flowers. They are often brightly colored or unusually shaped to attract pollinators. Together, all of the petals of a flower are called a corolla.
Female flower parts
Pistil: The pistil is the entire female reproductive part of a flower. The pistil, centrally located, typically consists of a swollen base (the receptical) , the ovary, which contains the potential seeds, or ovules; a stalk, or style, arising from the ovary; and a pollen-receptive tip, the stigma, variously shaped and often sticky.
Stigma: The stigma is part of the female flower organs. Most stigmas are adapted to trap pollen with hairs, flaps and other surfaces to increase their efficiency, and are covered with a waxy, sticky substance.
Ovary: (hidden within the receptical) In flowering plants, an ovary is a part of the female reproductive organ of the flower. Specifically, it is the part of the pistil which holds the ovule(s) and is located above or below or at the point of connection with the base of the petals and sepals.
Receptical: the receptacle or torus (an older term is thalamus, as in Thalamiflorae) is the thickened part of a stem from which the flower organs grow. In some accessory fruits, for example the pome and strawberry, the receptacle gives rise to the edible part of the fruit. In Bromeliads this forms into a capsual containing seeds.
Style: The style is a long, slender stalk that connects the stigma and the ovary. The stigma is at the top of thestyle and is a sticky platform where pollen is deposited.
the amazing colours of Bromeliads
One of the great attractions of Bromeliads is the amazing array of colour patterns some plants produce. Across the wide range of Bromeliad species, the family produces the greatest spectrum of leaf pigmentation (leaf colour) leaf colour pattern and leaf shape of any family of plants. More than this, the flowers and inflorescence of Bromeliads also produce the widest range of colour and shape. By cross-pollinating, growers are always creating new plants with amazing colour patterns which extends the visual diversity even further.
While some plants produce vivid leaf coloration at maturity when they begin to flower others retain these vibrant leaf colours from an early stage right through to maturity.
One of the great attractions of Bromeliads is the amazing array of colour patterns some plants produce.
By contrast, Billbergias produce a flamboyant inflorescence which is short lived.
On flowering some species of Aechmea produce vibrant inflorescence on a spectacular, extended stem that can last for 9 months or more. Some of these plants also produce colourful berries that alter colour as they ripen, extending the aesthetic appeal of the plant even further. By contrast, Billbergias produce a flamboyant inflorescence which is short lived.
By selecting a range of plants it is possible to always have some plants flowering and in colour though out the year, even in the coolest months.
Bromeliad taxonomy
Scientific name Aechmeagamospala - common name matchstick Bromeliad
Taxonomy is the science of classifying plants and animals through evaluating shared features and classifying them into a hierarchical structure. As a species is identified, it is given an internationally recognized two part name; the first part of
this name is called the Genus (which is always capitalized) and the second part the name the Species (which is all lower case). Vriesea erythrodactylon is an example. Within a colony of a certain species there can be variety where a pup or vegetative off-shoot shows morphological differences from the rest of the plant. If the mutated cultivar is stable it can be registered. These are called sports and cultivars which may differ by foliage shape or color or flowers and can be highly sort after for a collection.
On the other hand, hybrids are plants which have been cross-pollinated, often deliberately by a grower, perhaps to afford attributes of both parent plants in the new seedling. The creator of these plants who has accurate details of the parent plants involved in the cross, can registrar the plant with the Bromeliad Society International, and name the plant. Bromeliads cross-pollinate easily and hence the huge number of hybrids with names like Vriesea ‘Burgundy Bubbles’ which is a cross between Vriesea heterostachys X fenestralis.
As a species is identified, it is given an internationally recognized two part name; the first part of
this name is called the Genus (which is always capitalized) and the second part the name the Species (which is all lower case)
It is a little more complex than this, but in short, there are thousands of hybrid
Bromeliads, and the number of unregistered plants beggars belief. A search further back up Vriesea erythrodactylon lineage, finds it is in the subfamily Tillandsioideae, which is in the Bromeliaceae family or commonly known as Bromeliads. But the Family sits within a more complex classification - Series: Liliales, Class: Liliopsida, Phylum: Magnoliophyta, right up to the Kingdom where all plants sit, under Plantae.
The scientific name is usually derived from Latin or Greek (or a modern word that has been Latinized). Bromeliaceae are members of the Class Liliopsida (monocots). Monocots comprise one quarter of all flowering plants and include some of the largest and most well known groups of plants: orchids, palms, grasses.
Traditionally the family Bromeliaceae has been divided into three subfamilies: Pitcairnioideae, Bromelioideae and Tillandsioideae. Recently the accuracy of DNA sequencing has challenged scientists to reevaluate where some Bromeliad species sit and to the frustration of many growers, the classification of many plants have been shifted. However, as I have done here, for convenience I still tend to work with the three original sub-families.
Traditionally the family Bromeliaceae has been divided into three subfamilies: Pitcairnioideae, Bromelioideae and Tillandsioideae. Recently the accuracy of DNA sequencing has challenged scientists to reevaluate where some Bromeliad species sit.
Bromeliad sub-families
Neoregelia
Bromelioideae
This subfamily is the most diverse containing the greatest number of genera (but the least number of species). Most species in this subfamily are epiphytic and characterized by a rosette-like form, with many species forming a water holding tank, or in the case of Billbergias a tube, hence the name tank Bromeliads. As the base of the leaves in water have the ability to absorb water into the internal cells, yet not rot for being constantly submerged, these plants ability to store water in this manner assists the plant during dry periods.
They generally have spiny leaves and berry like fruits containing wet seeds which are often distributed by birds and animals who consume the fruits. Some genus of this subfamily, particularly Neorgelia, Aechmea and Billbergia can produce striking colour variation in the leaves. Nectar eating birds like the Eastern Spine Bill love to feed from these plants flowers.
Some genus of this subfamily, particularly Neorgelia, Aechmea and Billbergia can produce striking colour variation.
Tillandsia
Tillandsioideae
This subfamily contains very few genera but includes the most number of species. For instance of the 3,000 or so species of Bromeliad, more than 1,000 are Tillandsias. Most of the members of this subfamily are epiphytes. All have spineless leaves and their fruit is a dry capsule containing winged seeds which are usually dispersal by breezes.
The feathery plumes also help the seed to adhere to a suitable epiphytic surface for germination.
This subfamily has special adaptations for survival in very dry (xeric) conditions. Some genus, particularly Vriesea can produce striking colour variation, while many Tillandsia have an overall silver appearance from a profuse trichome cell cover that not only takes moisture into the plant but reflects intense sun light.
Generally the more silver these plants are the greater exposure to direct sunlight they can withstand. While many plants in this sub-family absorb all their water though the trichome cells on the leaf, many Vrieseas and some Tillandsias also form water holding vase shapes. Alcantareas can grow enormous before they mature and hold many tens of liters of water. Some of these plants can reflect up to 93% of sunlight that falls on them.
This subfamily has special adaptations for survival in very dry (xeric) conditions.
Curvature in Tillandsia leaves is a means of reducing exposure to direct sun for too long - we see many species of Tillandsia with a curve running not only down the length of leaf but across the leaf section as well - so the double curve acts to protect the plant by creating shade and thereby reducing exposure to any given area of the leaf for too long.
By contrast, this is why many plants with flatter leaves can burn in direct sun - this image of T ixodies is an example of the double curved leaf structure.
Dyckia Ruby Pride F2
Pitcairnioideae
This group of subfamilies contains the most ancient ancestral Bromeliads and many resemble the grass family from which they evolved. As mentioned earlier, more recently it has been split into a wider range of Genera but for simplicity it can be easier to group them together. Almost all are terrestrial and rely on an extensive root system for their moisture and nutrients. They are generally spiny leaved and have dry capsules with small wingless seeds. Most plants produce a monchromatic leaf colour but an attractive feature of the plants can be their strong symmetrical form.
Recent studies have used DNA analysis to examine the relationship between the genera of Bromeliaceae. The results confirmed that the Tillandsioideae and Bromelioideae subfamilies are monophyletic (derived from a single ancestral form). Pitcairnioideae, however, was found to be paraphyletic and required five new groups to be split from it in order for Pitcairnioideae and the newly created subfamilies to all be monophyletic as well. This new reorganization of the genera within the most ancestral subfamily (Pitcairnioideae) hopefully now comes closer to representing their true evolutionary (phylogenetic) relationships. The chart above illustrates this.
This group of subfamilies contains the most ancient ancestral Bromeliads and many resemble the grass family from which they evolved. Almost all are terrestrial and rely on an extensive root system for their moisture and nutrients
Biology of Bromeliads
Close up of trichome cells on a Tillandsia
Understanding the special biology Bromeliads have evolved lays a strong foundation for growing these plants. The biology of Bromeliads is quite different than the large majority of plants we might know and an understanding of Bromeliads sophisticated biological strategies allows one to grow them with greater success. Bromeliads use what is termed a CAM cycle or double photosynthetic pathway to grow. This means that they actually grow in the darkness of night.
All plants have a stomata, which is the cell plants use to uptake CO2 and release oxygen. In most plants this is continually open and they uptake CO2 during daylight hours but cease when darkness comes. As part of this gas exchange, water is transpired, this is why many plants dehydrate in hot windy weather. Some plants have developed a means of closing the stomata in hot dry conditions to conserve water, but they also cease growing.
Bromeliads use what is termed a CAM cycle or double photosynthetic pathway to grow. This means that they actually grow in the darkness of night.
However as a defense mechanism to cope with hot dry conditions, Bromeliads and a few other families of plants use of a CAM cycle means that the stomata is tightly closed during the heat of the day and opens during darkness in a complex way of growing. Consequently, as Bromeliads grow at night, they transpire little water during the process of photosynthesis.
Through what is called a CAM cycle, Bromeliads actually photosynthesis at night, in this way, the plants can minimize the amount of water lost through transpiration.
The other fascinating biological strategy Bromeliads have evolved is the use of trichome cells on the leaf to uptake water and nutrients into the plant. While all Bromeliads have these cells they are most obvious as attractive silver bands or dusting in some plants like Aechmeas, Billbergias and as a total covering as in Tillandsias. These silver markings are not pigmentations but visible patterns of trichome cells.
Bromeliads developed this biological strategy as an efficient means that allows them to grow as epiphytes on trees. To various degrees, this allows Bromeliads to dispense with roots or largely use them as a means of attachment. Silver trichome cells also play a role in protecting the plant from direct hot sun by reflecting up to 93% of light. There ore some Tillandsias that grown naturally where there has been virtually no rain for twenty years, but they manage to thrive by absorbing all their water an nutrients through the trichome cell.
So, when watering Bromeliads plants, rather than watering the roots, these plants respond more to misting of the leaves for it is the trichome on many plants that is the engine room for growth. In fact over watering the soil medium that a Bromeliad might grow in can result in the base of the plant rotting. and the total demise of the plant.
So, when watering Bromeliads plants, rather than watering the roots they respond more to misting of the leaves. In fact over watering the soil medium can result in rotting.
Climate zones
While these large Alcantareas grow well in the humid climate of the Philippines, they also grow well in a cooler climate like Melbourne.
There is such a wide array of Bromeliads and in their natural habitat, they colonize an incredibly wide range of climates. These vary from hot humid shady jungles where the climate is stable, to high plateaus where the climate is dry, extremely hot during the day but cold at night.
Replicating all these climates out doors at a single location for cultivation can be impossible, however many of these plants are surprisingly adaptive. Also at any location it is valuable to remember there is never a single climate, but a series of micro climates.
For instance an area of a garden might be in full sun nearly all day while only a few meters away a plant might be under the dappled shade of a tree. Plants grown on the ground might be subjected to cooler conditions at night to those grown as epiphytes higher up in a tree. Surprisingly a few degrees of temperature can make a huge difference.
Plants grown in pots can be easily be moved in summer to a shady location or winter to avoid frost.
Replicating all these climates out doors at a single location for cultivation can be impossible, however many of these plant are surprisingly adaptive
Climate cycles
Take into account that conditions alter from season to season, and even year to year.
Some Neoregelia plants I grew during a period of years when it was hot and dry grew well with good colour, however this period was followed with 2-3 years of 3 times as much rain and the trees they grew under produced a much denser canopy of leaves. The local climate altered which restricted the light falling on the plants below. The Neoregelia leaves grew longer and more strappy, had far less colour and flowered about 4 weeks later than in previous years.
For this reason many Bromeliad growers use pots to grow their plants and move them around accordingly. Fortunately many Bromeliads do not produce deep root systems and even when planted in the ground are easily moved from one location to another. Shallow root systems and other biological strategies like trichome up take of water an nutrients means moving Bromeliads is practical and relatively easy.
Take into account that conditions alter from season to season, and even year to year
Acclimatization
Imagine a Guzmania Bromeliad plant that looks amazing in a plant shop with luxurious foliage and a stunning bright flower spike, a customer is seduced into a purchase. However the plant might have been grown under optimum conditions in Queensland, gassed before the plant is fully mature to induce flowering, then offered for sale in the month of May in Melbourne. The eminent demise of the plant is almost guaranteed and over the next few months it fails and dies. The person who made the purchase believes that they are no good with plants and was them that killed the plant.
The fact that most people do not understand how these plants grow compounds the problem. They see the plant looking sick and over water the base and roots. However there might be another example of the same species of plant that does not look as flash, but it might be locally hard grown and easily able to withstand the conditions. So the source of a plant can effect the establishment out doors.
If a plant is taken from a shady position and placed in full summer sun the leaves will most likely yellow or even burn and the plant might suffer, where as if the plant is moved in early spring it more likely it will adjust with no stress at all.
the plant might have been grown under optimum conditions in Queensland, gassed before the plant is fully mature to induce flowering, then offered for sale in the month of May in Melbourne
Creating a micro climate
Like a new born in a desert, a single Bromeliad planted in an exposed area can be at the mercy of the elements. Like people, plants respond to the presence of each other and while creating a colony of a species may take time, by planting out an area with a range of Bromeliads and other plants it is possible to create a micro climate where the plants respond and will grow better.
So rather than spreading a few plants out over a wide area, begin with planting them close together and then as they grow break them up and spread them out. If they are in pots, the pots can be moved as the plants grow larger.
by planting out an area with a range of Bromeliads and other plants it is possible to create a micro climate
Latitude, temperature, light, humidity, rain
Aechmea chantinii a beautiful but cold sensitive Bromeliad
While many Bromeliads grow in more tropical latitudes than Melbourne, they also grow at much higher altitudes, where the air is thinner and cooler at night. Some can even grow at altitudes of 4-5,000m. So, a great range of species can adapt to the Melbourne environment. It is worth noting that, even though the temperature drops in winter and night time in these altitudes, the light exposure is quite different to Melbourne.
In latitudes closer the the equator, there is less difference in the length of the day from winter to summer, which means there is less variation in the light level and the wet period may be reversed. In Melbourne we experience the wettest and most humid months in winter when it is cold, where as these plants may have evolved to wetter, higher humidity in the heat of summer and low humidity in the cool of winter. This means that some plants might rot in winter.
For instance, although the plants might not die during winter they tend to become dormant wityh no growth. The leaves of some Neoregelia might begin to colour in autumn, lose their coloiur over winter and then begin to colour again in summer before they flower.
However, there are some really beautiful Bromeliads that are truly tropical plants, like Aechmea chantinii and Aechmea blanchetiana that will not survive the cold of a Melbourne winter out doors.
With new plants, it is wise to keep an open eye for how the plants are growing with this in mind and quickly respond if the plant looks like it is failing.
While many Bromeliads grow in more tropical latitudes than Melbourne, they also grow at much higher altitudes, where the air is thinner and cooler at night. Some can even grow at altitudes of 4-5,000m.
Insurance
When you first locate a plant out doors in the open garden, plant it in what appears to be a sympathetic location where its is not exposed to excessive weather extremes. Once the plant has adapted and is producing pups, harvest the pups and begin experimenting with more challenging locations.
Having several plants of the same species at different locations also acts as a form of insurance, in that if one dies there is a back up plant in an other location.
Once the plant has adapted and is producing pups, harvest the pups and begin experimenting with more challenging locations.
Problems that might arise
Dealing with slugs and snails and snails
The image shows slug damage to the spike of an Aechmea
Slug is a common name for an apparently shell less terrestrial gastropod mollusc.
Slugs are particularly attracted to the flowers and stems of Aechmea, Billbergia, Neoregelia and Nidulariums. They attack the flowers and can eat right through stems. Occasionally they will also eat holes in the leaves of Bromeliads.
They usually hide down in the lower leaves where there is dampness during the heat of the day and move upwards during the darkness of night to feed.
While chemical bate can be used to kill slug a yeast mixture with flour and sugar can attract them and they drown in the mixture.
Birds can catch and eat many. Squashing these pests can still allow eggs to hatch, so, with heavy infestations, I wait until dark and go around the plants with a torch, picking the slugs off and tossing them into a bucket of boiling water.
Slugs are particularly attracted to the flowers and stems of Aechmea, Billbergia, Neoregelia and Nidulariums. They attack the flowers and can eat right through stems. Occasionally they will also eat holes in the leaves of Bromeliads.
I don't like using poison to kill slugs because it might harm the frog population which is a real treasure in the garden.
As the slugs come out at night I go out slugging in the dark with a strong LED torch. When I first started I was getting over 120 slugs a night, now it is down to 2 or 3. But there is also an added benefit to looking at Broms with a torch - you get to see what is happening deep down in the vase or tube of the plants and often the early signs of flowers forming are revealed. This is particularly so with Neoregeias, Achemeas, Billbergias, Vrieseas. Also looking at Bromeliads in torch light can often reveal frogs sitting on the leaves.
In their native habitat the flowers of some plants are pollinated by bats and consequently only open at night so doing the rounds at nigh with a torch can allow one to view these flowers fully open.
I don't like using poison to kill slugs because it might harm the frog population which is a real treasure in the garden
Rabbits
An Aechmea eaten right down by a rabbit - the plant did survive but took many years to fully recover
Rabbits don't usually eat Bromeliads but in late summer when their usual food supply is scarce they begin to explore any potential food source. However, if they do attack Bromeliads they can do immense damage and will eat some Bromeliads right down to the ground. As long as they do not eat through the cortex (a critical layer of cells related to the meristem from which the plant grows) the plant will recover.
However because the plant has few reserves and has little root reserves to grow from, it can take a very long time - 3 years or more - for full growth to resume. If the cortex is severed often the plant dies, but nature is resilient and occasionally if the plant is part of a colony that can grow a new pup or grass shoot from the roots.
Rabbits don't usually eat Bromeliads but in late summer when their usual food supply is scarce they begin to explore any potential food source
Possums
Again possums do not usually eat Bromeliads, but frustratingly, in summer when water is scarce they can do great damage as they tear away the center of Neoregelias ripping the leaves to get the the water in the vase. The easiest way of dealing with this problem is to leave a bowl of water near by for them to drink from.
I have also had plants damaged and even killed where possums have jumped from a tree branch on the plants below. Some growers suggest spreading fertilizer pellets like dynamic lifter around as a deterrent. The fertilizer will also stimulate the plant to grow.
possums do not usually eat Bromeliads, but frustratingly, in summer when water is scarce they can do great damage as they tear away the center of Neoregelias ripping the leaves to get the the water in the vase
Wallabys
Cute as they are, Wallabys can do immense damage in any garden and Bromeliads are not immune to their foraging. They can chew off a developing flower spike in one chomp. They are partial to Aechmea and Billbergia flowers and seem to love demolishing the whole inflorescence just as the flowers are about to open. Also if they are foraging and Bromeliads are in the way they will simply push them aside or squash them to get at the food source they are after.
I have an extensive planting of Bromeliads under an ornamental apple tree and as the small fruits fall to the ground Wallabys will squash plants and knock off developing pups to get at the fruit. I now remove the fruit before it begins to fall and locate it in a place they can get to it with out wrecking any Bromeliads. Moving plants up into the branches of a tree above wallaby height alleviates the problem.
Cute as they are, Wallabys can do immense damage in any garden and Bromeliads are not immune to their foraging.
Mealybugs
Mealybugs are a type of unarmored, soft scale white coloured insect. They feed on the sap of Bromeliads by puncturing the living tissues on leaves and roots causing significant damage to the plant. They form colonies and appear as cottony masses on Bromeliad leaves or stem. Mealybugs excrete a sticky substance called honeydew that is left behind on your plant’s surface. This sweet honeydew is highly desired by ants. Often the presence of ants is an indication of a mealybug infestation.
Usually mealybugs are introduced through a new plant from a nursery so there is some sense in placing new plant in an isolated area until they prove free of the pest.
Mealybugs like warm humid climates and can multiply very quickly. While eliminating mealybugs can be difficult when growing plants in doors, I have found that they don't like the Melbourne climate. The hot dry periods of summer can dry out the soil medium and roots - while during the cool of winter they die off. Any meralybug infestation I have had on hard grown Bromeliads in the Melbourne climate are simply over come by the climate in a few years and disappear and I have not needed to spray with a toxic pesticide.
Any meralybug infestation I have had on hard grown Bromeliads in the Melbourne climate are over come in a few years and disappear
Scale
The major scale pest is fly-speck scale (tiny, black dots on the leaves). Brown scale is also sometimes a problem. Treat by spraying with a systemic insecticide or dipping the plant in a solution of it. Commonly used ones are
Folimat, Confidor & Rogor. Confidor is a water based formulation with a relatively low toxicity. These insecticides move throughout the plant to control insect pests & attack the sucking insects from the inside. You’ll need to spray twice within a fortnight. As Bromeliads absorb moisture and nutrients through the trichome cells on the leaf, DON’T USE WHITE OIL WHICH WILL KILL THE PLANT.
DON’T USE WHITE OIL WHICH WILL KILL THE PLANT.
Frogs
A real bonus when growing tank type Bromeliads like Neoregelias are frogs. During the heat of the day, they love getting down inside the leaves to the water below where they are also protected from predators, then at night they come out onto the more exposed areas of leaf to hunt insects. I have at least three species of frogs that frequent the Bromeliads.
In South America some species of frog have evolved to lay their eggs and breed in the vases of tank Bromeliads.
A real bonus when growing tank type Bromeliads like Neoregelias are frogs
Lizards
Bromeliads also attract lizards which do no damage. In the garden I have seen three species including a large blue tongue that loves sliding along below the foliage of Neoregelias and Vrieseas.
Insects
Millipedes
Millipedes are a group of arthropods that are characterized by having two pairs of jointed legs on most body segment. Most millipedes are slow-moving , eating decaying leaves and other dead plant matter. Some eat fungi or suck plant fluids, and a small minority are predatory. They can feed on the flowers and leaves of some Bromeliads.
Centipedes
Centipedes are predominantly carnivorous and do not feed on Bromeliads. Centipedes have a rounded or flattened head, bearing a pair of antennae at the forward margincentipedes may bite if disturbed or handled. The bite from a centipede may cause severe pain and associated swelling. An ice pack may relieve local pain. Seek medical attention if symptoms persist.
Honey eating birds are attracted to many Bromeliad flowers. The Eastern Spine Bill is the closest bird Australia has to a humming bird and love Bromeliad flowers. They will hover in the air and insert their tongue into the tube of the flower to gain the nectar.
While they prove successful at pollination, these birds will happily fly from flower to flower, species to species and genus to genus, mixing up the genes at they go about their feeding.
Treated timber
Treated timber often contain copper which is toxic and harmful to Bromeliads, so don't use it to mount plants on or have the near these plants. For instance constructing a shade house ftrom treated timber to house these plants in can have an effect. This poisoning can show as brown marks about the size of a one-cent coin at the base of bromeliads. The affected spots can gradually became “mushy” and encourage fungal attack and rot.
Also sawdust from these timbers can cause serious problems so if you are using mulch that contains sawdust, find out the source.
How do Bromeliads Grow - Pot culture
The main advantage of growing Bromeliads in pots is that they can easily be moved. I have a group of Broms in the bathroom as a screen in the shower and other locations in the house. I change these over every month or so and having the plants in pots means the change over is easy. Also you can move them around the garden at anytime.
Depending upon the species, Bromeliads can be grown in pots or as epiphytes, many adapt to both strategies. All Bromeliads like an open free draining medium and while different growers have their own secret mix, the plants can grow well in a wide range of mediums as long as it will not clog with water. In nature many growing as epiphytes gather leaf and dust litter as a colony builds on a tree and while this might retain moisture - the carton (the build up of organic material) is always able to drain.
When grown in pots it can be advisable to drill additional holes in the bottom and side of the pot to not only allow excellent drainage but also good air flow through the potting medium. Placing a layer of stones or scoria in the bottom of a pot means there is excellent drainage. Use a course mix with plenty of organic matter. In spring when the plants begin to respond to the warmer weather sprinkling a small amount of pellet fertilizer like Dynamic lifter can give the plant a boost.
As mentioned the advantage of growing the plants in pots means they can easily be move at any point.
Be aware that over time the roots of some plants can grow through the drainage holes and lock the plant into the pot. The mat of fibrous roots can even split a pot in two. I have even seen Neoregeilas grow a stolon over the edge of a pot into the adjacent soil and over a few years abandon the pot altogether. For this reason it is good practice to observe what is happening with these plants and re-pot when needed.
With some pot grown plants I let the roots from a solid ball and remove the plant with the root ball that binds the medium and then mount it on a tree.
Pots can also be used to create a sense of height in a garden. By planting very large Bromeliads in huge pots, they can be lifted above plants in medium sized pots, which in turn can be positioned to sit above smaller pots
Terrestrially - in the ground
Bromeliads like Aechmea, Alcantareas, Billbergia, Neoregelia, Nidulariums and Vrieseas
planted out directly in the ground as a group can look fantastic, however remember that they do not like wet feet. The area has to drain well in wet periods. Make sure the medium is lose and free draining. A raised bed built up from mulched wood chips and dry leaves with organic matter is ideal. In fact sculpting the area into a raised shape not only offers free drainage but can accent the area and show off the plants to full advantage. By placing larger plants in the center
which is also higher and smaller plants at the edge a greater sense of height and depth is achieved.
However, I have successfully planted Billbergias and Neoregelias on a steep bank of pure clay with little organic matter and they have grown fine.
In time the individual plants will begin to grow into larger colonies which may need broken up.
In terms of weeds, with a little maintenance, over time they will dominate most weeds. As the leaves of large Neoregelias spread out they tend to suppress the weeds. Over a period of years I have successfully eradicated a whole area of oxalis - normally an impossible task.
Here Bromeliads are growing in the ground at the base of a gum tree and also as epiphyites on the trunk of the tree
Growing plants underneath Gum Trees can be challenging. They are evergreen which means they shade the plants growing underneath them all year round, and their roots tend to use all of the available water and nutrients which leaves little for other plants. Also, Eucalyptus trees show allelopathic effects; they release compounds which inhibit other plant species from growing nearby. So in nature we tend to see few plants growing under Gum Trees.
However, Bromeliads are one family of plants that will grow well in this situation. This is because they take most of their water and nutrients in through trichome cells on the leaf. Under a leaf canopy, Bromeliad plants need to get water from what is termed "fall through" - rain falling through the canopy of the tree to the ground. As this only happens when there is significant rain, or the Bromeliads may be in an area where rain is deflected away, you may need to water these plants more often with a fine mist.
Depending upon light levels, a range of species will grow well under gum trees. In brighter situations try Aechemas, Billbergias Neoregelias, while Canistropsis, Nidulariums and Vrieseas can tolerate more shade. All of these grow well for me.
As epiphytes
One of the intriguing aspects of growing Bromeliads is how they so easily adapt to growing in trees as epiphytes. Of course this is not surprising. Many naturally grow this way and in cultivation have been adapted to grow in the ground.
Creating an epiphytic Bromeliad tree is a very satisfying project to work on which will enchant any garden. Many Aechmeas, Billbergias, Neoregelias, Nidulariums and Vrieseas can adapt to a life in the trees and thrive. However expect that as epiphyites they may grow smaller than fertilized plants that grow in pots or terrestrially.
Rather than growing them as individual plants and harvesting the pups, look to establish large colonies of plants which look stunning.
Of course the master epiphytes are Tillandsias and many species can adapt to grow on almost anything like cactus plants, trees, rocks, power wires, buildings. Some even grow upside down, and over time can form ball shapes with pups shooting off at all angles.
Generally Bromeliads grown in the ground produce a larger and more branched root system than those grown on trees. By contrast, the roots of epiphytic plants are often thicker, quite wiry and mold around the shape of the host.
While attaching plants can be done with a glue gun, which is effective for plant grown indoors or a very sheltered position. However out doors in exposed locations where the wind can dislodge the plants, I use wire to strap the whole plant around the trunk of a tree. DON'T USE COPPER WIRE! Bromeliads do not like copper, or mount the plants onto treated timber which also contains copper.
There are arguments that galvanized wire can also harm the plants but I have found it work fine. Plastic coated wire can also work well, or fishing braid.
I tie the wire tightly around the hard base of the plant and then wrap a second wire about the middle of the plant. The plant will form adventurous roots that will eventually secure it to the bark of the tree. Once it forms a colony, which might take a few years, and is fully attached to the tree the wires can be removed.
All Bromeliads like an open free draining medium and while different grower have their own secret mix, they can grow well in a wide range of mediums as long as it will not clog with water
Saxicaulis - Growing on, or living among, rocks
In their native habitat, some Bromeliad plants grow attached to rocks,and even vertical rock cliffs with no real soil medium at all - these plants are termed lithophytes. In some locations, huge spectacular Altantareas naturally grow on vertical granite cliffs. Some Tillandsias and Vrieseas also grow attached to vertical rock where there only nutrients come from the atmosphere.
The life a Bromeliad plant
The natural growth phases of a Bromeliad from seed encompass, germination, a juvenile stage which can take many years, maturity when the plant flowers, seed production (if pollinated) then the demise of the mother plant where pups or off-shoots are produced - This is called asexual propagation : Sexless; without sex, such as in vegetative propagation.
Nearly all Bromeliads produce offshoots or pups which can simply be left to build a colony of the same plant, or once they are about 1/3 the size of the parent plant they can be cut off and planted somewhere else.
Once the parent plant or mother plant has flowered energy goes into seed production, and these off shoots (know as pups). If the flowers have been pollinated and the plant is in the process of producing seed it is likely to produce less pups. If however there was little or no pollination the plant is likely to produce a greater number of more vigorous pups. Removing pups can also stimulate the parent plant to produce more, however these can take longer to mature than if the pups are left attached to the mother plant.
After it has flowered the mother Bromeliad produces off-shoots or what are called pups
Over a period of time, that may even take a few years, the mother plant transfers all its energy to the new pups and slowly dies. As this process of pup production begins and continues the vibrant colour of the mother plant diminishes and the leaves slowly die and can rot in the center. The mother plant becomes quite unattractive until the new pups grow to full size an over take the mother plant. There are many ideas about the right time to remove pups and also removing the failing mother plant, but there is a point where the mother plant looks unattractive and can simply be removed by cutting it off at the base.
Removing pups
Some species of Bromeliad produce long, fibrous almost wire like formation from the bottom of the mother plant called stolons from which the pup forms.
In cases like this removing the pups very simple as the stolon can be cut at a range of points with a sharp blade, securters or in the case of large plants a sharp saw. Some Neoregelias and Aehmeas produce long stolons and in the case of Aechmea gracilis I have a mature plant colony that has never produced any roots but has secured itself to a tree by winding a series of stolons around the branches.
Other plants produce pups very close to the mother which can become difficult to remove. With these plants it is best to leave them until the pup has nearly fully developed. Separating the pup too early can result in cutting the cortex and killing the pup. With some species like vrieseas where the pup is formed close to the parent, it works better to twist off the pup.
Some species of Bromeliad produce long, fibrous almost wire like formation from the bottom of the mother plant called stolons from which the pup forms
Grass pups
Some species have a habit of producing grass pups. These small pups are different from normal pups. Rather than forming after ther parent plant has matured, they are very small grass like pups that form around the base of the plant before flowering has occurred. Once they reach a sustainable size they can often be removed from the mother plant and grown on successfully, but they will grow much slower than a normal pup. Treat them more like a young seedling. Example of plants that produce grass pups are: Tillandsia viridiflorea, Vriesea glutinosa, Alcantarea imperialis.
Leaf and dead tissue build up
In nature Bromeliads often rely upon organic leaf litter, pollen, dust, dead insects, bird and animal droppings to accumulate in the center of the plant as a sort of fertilizer "soup" which offers added nutrients for the plant to assess. However, as these break down the mixture can cause areas of the leaf to discolour and some growers remove this or wash it out with a hose. Old dead leaves are also trimmed off to make the plant more attractive.
In nature Bromeliads often rely upon organic leaf litter, pollen, dust, dead insects, bird and animal droppings to accumulate in the center of the plant as a sort of fertilizer "soup"
Watering in dry periods
Although I have left Bromeliads out-doors for three weeks in high summer to their own devices and they have been fine, during dry periods many Bromeliads respond to watering. Remember that as they take water in through the trichome cell on the leaf it is wise to mist the plants regularly rather than saturate the soil medium. The time of day is also important. In summer when the days can be hot with low humidity, misting early in the morning allows the plant to take in the moisture and dry before the heat of direct sun can act through the water drops and burn the leaf. It is also suggested that watering early so the plant can dry allows the plant to grow better through the CAM cycle.
One summer, when we were away I had a well meaning friend staying who, because it was hot, decided to water the Tillandsias. It was 40 degrees and late morning. The combination of direct sun and water burnt the trichome cells and did immense damage to ther plants. Soem died while others took years to recover. In very hot conditions if you can not water very early in the morning, don't water at all!
Water
rain water
When rain falls to the earth it is not only the magic ingredient H2O that plants depend upon, but it accumulates traces of nutrients from the atmosphere like nitrogen, phosphorous. More than three-quarters of the earth's atmosphere consists of nitrogen, yet only a fraction of one percent of the mass of the oceans, atmosphere, and earth's crust is composed of nitrogen. Nitrogen is an essential element for the formation of proteins in both plants and animals. Rainwater does the critical job of transferring nitrogen from the sky to the soil where plants can access it. However as so many Bromeliads have evolved to take moisture and nutrients in through the trichome leaf cell rain plays an essential role for these plants. If you have Bromeliads growing in-doors it is a good idea to put them outside in a shower of rain.
City tap water
Some city water supplies have chemicals that are harmful to Bromeliads and can burn the leaves. These plants respond to soft water and can have a negative response to hard water. Hard water is water that has high mineral content (in contrast with "soft water"). Hard water is formed when water percolates through deposits of limestone and chalk which are largely made up of calcium and magnesium carbonates
Tank water
Tank water is rain water collected from a roof. Generally this is good water for Bromeliads. However make sure the roof, gutters, pipes or tank contain NO COPPER! There are some suggestions that water collected from a galvanized roof or stored in a galvanized tank can produce harmful effects on Bromeliads. I collect rain from galvanized roofs and store it in both galvanized and plastic tanks and have seen no perceptible difference. However, if you have a new galvanized roof or tank It is wise to allow this to weather before using for watering.
Consider that water from a roof contains traces of bird droppings, organic dust, perhaps decaying leaf material etc. which can be of benefit to these plants.
Dam water
At certain times of the year I use dam water to water the Bromeliads. I had been told that the minerals in the dam water would discolour the plants, but the water seemed to have no effect on the Bromeliads. However dam water is not the same everywhere and depends upon the mineral content of the catchment, so approach this with some caution.
Buoyant air
All Bromeliads love a buoyant air flow. Keeping a good air flow around the plants ensures that they dry out quickly after watering. This is particularly important for Tillandsdias. However there is distinct differencer between bouyant air and strong cold winds which can effect some plants. I have grown some Tillandsias right on the coast where tyhey are subject to strong salt winds. The experimental air plants we have on top of Eureka Tower experience winds over 200 kmph.
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When the massive Andes mountain range thrust upward, it spawned a multitude of weird and eccentric plant forms that are often called air plants
Species: hoheniana - Genera: Neoregelia - Sub- family: - Bromelioideae
